Alpacas naturally don’t like to be handled and it can be a stressfull experience for both Alpaca and owner so it is important to make it as stress free as possible for all concerned.
Alpacas are intelligent animals and will get used to a routine quickly.
We have a small paddock which we feed the alpacas in daily. They come into the paddock of their own volition for their daily feed. We let them feed and then relax for a while.
Within this small paddock we have a small handling area made from close boarded fencing. This is again divided into four increasingly smaller pens. The alpacas are easily rounded up into this area where any husbandry can be carried out. Animals that need specific treatment can be separated out but still remain close to the herd so that they are less stressed.
The more thought and planning you put into your husbandry area the easier it is to carry out husbandry tasks and the less stress there is all round. We will happily offer advice on the best set up for your husbandry area, it is important to get it right.
|By using fenced runs alpacas can be moved from one area to the other easily. Its all about cutting down their options, they then know what is being asked of them.||Our handling pen is small, the less space they have the better, if they think they can get away they will try, remove that option and there is less stress all round.|
Worming, Vaccinations and Vitamin A D &E
Alpacas are susceptible to the same worms that infect our native animals such as sheep and they need medicating accordingly.
We generally worm our alpacas twice a year (March and September) with whatever wormer is recommended by our vet and after routinely checking for parasites via fecal egg counts.
Sometiimes it is necessary to worm in addition to this dependant on weather conditions or the prevalence of parasites at certain times of the year.
Keeping the fields/paddocks clean by regular removal of dung undoubtedly helps to keep the worm burden down.
We ususally use an Ivermectin based injectable wormer but have also used a drench wormer such as Panacur. Your vet will be the best person to advise you what to use and when.
We also treat cria for Coccidia using a drench called Vecoxan, adult alpacas normally build up a good immunity to Coccidia but it is something that is always worth considering if you have an alpaca who is losing weight or energy without good reason.
We live in quite a wet grazing area where Liver Fluke is prevalent. We routinely treat the herd with Fasinex twice a year which kills off all stages of the fluke.
Vaccination against the clostridial diseases is important although there is little hard evidence that it is effective in alpacas. Our vet said that it is better to vaccinate that not to. That was good enough advice for us.
We use Lambivac at a dosage rate of 2.0ml per alpaca regardless of size and age. The injection is given sub cutaneously.
We vaccinate the whole herd in March and September. We also like to vaccinate pregnant females a month before unpacking so that the cria will benefit. Cria are then vaccinated at 1 month old, two months old and then every 6 months with the rest of the herd.
Vitamin A D & E is something that we give to our alpacas during the winter. This is due to the lack of sunlight in this country. In their native South America alpacas living at altitude get a healthy dose of strong sunshine all year round which produces their natural vitamins. In the UK we need to supplement the alpacas with vitamins A D & E. Failure to do so, particularly young cria may lead to rickets and ultimately death. We use an injectible A D & E which we administer sub cutaneously from November to March. We also give it to cria at 2 months of age. The dosages we use are as follows: Cria 0.5ml; Weanlings 1.0ml; Adults 1.5ml.
If in any doubt about any medication it is best to seek advice from another alpaca breeder or your vet, simply ignoring the situation and doing nothing is the wrong thing, your alpacas rely on you.
Alpacas have soft toenails very similar to our own and on the rocky plains of the altiplano they are worn down naturally. On the lovely soft pastures that we put them on the nails don’t get worn down and therefore to prevent injury and deformation of the toes we have to trim them.
The frequency of this varies from one animal to the other. We find that alpacas with black toenails require trimming a lot less frequently than those with light coloured nails. A rough average is 3 times a year although some may need trimming more frequently.
It is easily done with minimal instruction. We use sheep foot rot shears which seem perfectly designed for the task.
Shearing is required once a year in early summer. We usually try to get ours sheared at the beginning of June, and hope for dry weather before, during and after! The fleeces can then be sorted and sent to the mill etc.
There are various shearers around in the summer and it is best to book them early as they do get busy!
Toenail clipping and shearing
The most important thing about keeping alpacas and monitoring their health is to know your animals. Alpacas hide illness very effectively, it is a bult in instinctive defence mechanism. A weak or unwell alpaca will be singled out by a predator.
If you observe you alpacas daily and get to know how they move and how they behave you can hopefully pick up any subtle differences that may indicate that something is not quite right.
If you do that and investigate when you do notice a change in behaviour you will be doing the best thing for your alpacas. If in any doubt seek advice quickly.